As part of a 3-week India itinerary, Goa was my entry point into the country. This wasn’t random – it was strategic. Before planning the trip, a few of my family members (my dad is Indian) had advised against me travelling to India alone, suggesting it would be too intense and chaotic for a non-native to navigate without someone more familiar with the country.

However, they made an exception for Goa, saying that, if I had to go solo, it should be here, as it’s the most relaxed and tourist friendly – known for its beautiful beaches, hippie culture, and vibrant nightlife. So I compromised – starting in Goa and then working my way into the more intense parts of India. This worked well, offering an easy-going introduction to the country’s culture and lifestyle without getting overwhelmed.

As Goa is India’s smallest state, I thought I could cover a fair chunk of it in 4 days, starting from the quieter South to the busier North.  So, this guide breaks down how to make the most of a 4-day stay in Goa, whether there as part of a wider itinerary or shorter vacation.

Flying into Goa Dabolim airport, I arrived in the evening. After a long,  exhausting flight, the last thing you want is to be haggling for a fair taxi price. Fortunately, I had a Goan friend in the UK who had sorted me out a driver, waiting there for me with my name on a board, and I was ferried to South Goa hassle-free. So I’d strongly recommend pre-arranging your taxi. At the other end of the journey was my Airbnb, always a good idea for a more comfortable first night settling in.

I was quick to jump straight into the hostel scene for the second night, which I always find to be a much more rewarding social experience. I’d browsed Hostelworld before flying out and came across Rainbow Linings Hostel, which seemed like the best option in South Goa. Although not overly active, its very laid back atmosphere made it easy to strike up conversation, so it did the trick.  It was also conveniently placed next to Cantine Indienne, which serves up delightful food all day, and hosts this funky hippy trance thing Thursday nights.

Although both South and North Goa are both relatively peaceful compared to the rest of India, the south is a little quieter (the North is more party vibes), so I started here in the hopes of more secluded beaches to properly unwind before true adventurousness began …

On my first day, after a bit of morning research, I set out to explore some of the best nearby beaches. I rented a scooter (around 500 rupees a day), which made it easy to move between them. The highways are surprisingly quiet, making for a safe and relaxed ride.

The first beach I visited was Galgibaga, which was around a 10 minute scooter ride south of the hostel. It was gloriously quiet – I was just about the only person there. Clear sand with ample open space, calm waters, and a chill ocean breeze ushering a profound sense of peace. Lush vegetation provides a soothing backdrop.

The next beach was Talpona, pretty similar to the previous but with a few more shacks cropping up. A further 10 minutes on was Patnem – my favourite in South Goa. It had the right balance of everything: still tranquil, but with a few more people making for more of an atmosphere. Yogis dot the sand doing their thing. It’s also got a distinctive appearance, shaped like a crescent and lined with palm trees and colourful shacks. If I could spend all day at one beach, it would be here.

The last South Goa beach stop was its most popular: Palolem. This had the best atmosphere – by far the busiest, but in a good way. There’s a noticeable surge in vibrancy and things going on, ranging from cows facing off to burgeoning discos teasing a promising nightlife. It also offers a striking sunset.

The next day, get up reasonably early, have a satisfying breakfast at Cantine Indienne, and make your way up to the Vagator area in North Goa. Use Goa Miles, a very handy, fairly priced app for longer trips in Goa (This one is around 2 hours). Be prepared for driving and rules (or lack thereof) that are quite different from what you’d see in most western countries – other than that sit back and enjoy the verdant views that come with scaling the length of the state.

There are a variety of good hostels in North Goa; it’s practically the holidaymaking hub of India with its bustling backpacking scene. I was spoilt for choice but landed at Bucket List Hostel. Although facilities here weren’t the greatest (it was extremely cheap so I didn’t expect the world), it has a solid social atmosphere. The bar area, and its friendly staff, is a good place to gather and take part in the hostel’s events. It lays the groundwork for a memorable night in Goa’s buzzing bar scene. I had strategically timed my arrival in North Goa for a Friday, and the night life didn’t disappoint!

After the lengthy journey from the south, you’ll find you won’t be able to do too much for the rest of your first day in the North. Before hitting up the bars, I’d recommend chilling at Vagator Beach for the remainder of the afternoon, which is the closest to the hostel. This beach wasn’t the best I had visited aesthetically, but the sunset attracted a good atmosphere – hordes of locals and tourists alike flock to the shore, just to chat and catch a vibe, with hip stuff going on in the background.

You’ve probably guessed it – the next day meant more beach hopping. There are plenty in North Goa, and if you are there for longer than I was, you’ll have ample time to explore them all. I, however, had to be a little selective and ended up at a collection of the most recommended which were around 30 minute tuk tuk ride north of the hostel.

Morjim Beach was the first stop. Very spacious and liberating, with comfy huts to have a drink and kick your feet up in the shade. You can then take a pleasant walk up to the neighbouring Ashvem Beach. What’s nice about this beach is that the coconut palms are very close, almost hanging over you, and it’s narrower than Morjim so seems cozier. It’s a good place to watch seabirds and crabs, and also to just lounge on a sunbed until sunset.

With more time I would have checked out Anjuna, Arambol, and Baga Beach, which also came up frequently in recommendations but were just a little further away …

On your last day in the state, it’s your opportunity to explore Old Goa, as well as the capital Panjim. I had booked a hotel close to Goa Dabolim airport, so I would visit both places en route to the hotel, in a taxi booked for the day. The hostel staff can help you negotiate prices with drivers over the phone.

First up was the Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception church in Panjim. This is just a brief stopover, worth it to fleetingly marvel at this historical white church with its impressive Baroque architecture and zig zag staircase.

From here is a short drive to Bairro das Fontainhas – the Latin Quarter. Walking through here is a treat. Its cobbled streets are lined with beautiful coloured villas in the Portuguese style, giving a real Mediterranean feel. The narrow walkways have no traffic, and meandering through here is like a mini retreat.

For lunch, my Goan friend back home had recommended I eat at a place called Bombil, and it didn’t disappoint! Its specialty is Goan seafood thali, and their portions are fresh, tasty, and very picturesque. The décor is simple but the atmosphere homely and vibrant. Perfect to fuel up the rest of your day exploring.

Stepping out satisfied from Bombil, I headed to Old Goa, the most touristy place I had been to yet, albeit mostly local tourists. It is a small complex of important historical sites, including the Basilica of Bom Jesus and the Se Cathedral.

Around 45 minutes to an hour is good enough to explore the two. The Basilica is a historic Roman Catholic Church. Walk around it, marvelling at its classic baroque architecture which is unlike anything you would have seen so far. Take a little walk inside and gawp at the ornate interior, and the revered tomb of Missionary St. Francis Xavier.

A walk across the road is the Se Cathedral, known as one the largest churches in Asia. Its white exterior glistens in the midday sun. Loiter before it, taking in its strong presence and impressive grandeur. Apparently, the interior is also a site to behold, but I didn’t get time to explore that, or even the nearby Church of St. Francis of Assisi, as I was getting missed calls from my cabbie so had to hurry back!

I was then driven to my final residence in Goa. I had booked a guest house a little closer to the airport, ending up in a place which happened to be next to a local beach – Bogmalo. Arriving with a big chunk of the afternoon to spare, it was nice to take one last stroll on the shore, taking in the fresh sea air before I would be hitting up the crowded Indian cities – Mumbai being the first of such.

In all honesty, although the country’s smallest state, 4 days isn’t enough to truly experience everything Goa has to offer. In an ideal world, you’d have a week or more. Therefore, I thought I’d give mentions to other places I researched which you could visit with more time. First off, the Dudhsagar falls – a waterfall which is amongst Indias tallest, located in Mollem National Park. Book it as part of a jeep safari, spotting wildlife while you venture through dense tropical forest, before arriving at the fall’s spectacular display.

For an authentic Goan cultural experience, take a spice plantation tour. It’s an opportunity to be guided around lush landscapes, learning about traditional spice cultivation, tasting spices fresh from the source, and savouring the end result by eating a freshly cooked Goan lunch. I believe these tours operate close to Dudhsagar falls, so you can pair the two if convenient.

For more culture, check out the Anjuna Flea Market (operating on Wednesdays) with its bedazzling display of colour and crafts, designed as an artistic outlet by Hippies in the 60s. For a bit more history, combined with panoramic coastline views, Fort Aguada and Chapora Fort are a solid shout.