Flying in from the sheltered existence of Goa, and as part of a 3-week India itinerary, Mumbai was my first taste of real urban Indian life. It stands tall and proud as one of the country’s most populous and productive cities, as well as its commercial powerhouse. Steeped in history, it remains strongly reminiscent of its past as a colonial hub – another intriguing draw.

After some research, I decided 4 days was enough to cover Mumbai’s most important sights without feeling rushed. Using my own experience, this guide shows you how to make the most of that time.

The flight from Goa was only an hour and I arrived early in the morning. Upon landing, make your way to the Uber Pick-Up point to catch your ride to the city centre – essentially South Mumbai. The traffic coming out of the airport is mind-blowingly gridlocked, and generates noise that will astonish you: an apt introduction to Indian city life.

I treated myself to some upscale accommodation for my first night in South Mumbai, booking the Fort Residency Hotel, a bit of luxury for an affordable price – including a satisfying all-you-can-eat breakfast. It’s also in a great location for quick access to all the main sights.

For the second night, in keeping with my usual backpacking style, I booked a hostel – Backpacker Cowies. It wasn’t the best hostel I’ve been to – the multiple floors took a little from the atmosphere, but again its location was convenient. For the last night I stayed at an Airbnb in the Bandra West area, finishing in comfort before my onward flight to Jaipur.

I arrived in Fort Residency around midday and for the rest of the afternoon explored the nearby attractions. First up was a short walk to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, perhaps the most famous railway station in India. Its Victorian Gothic architecture is majestic, and the building serves as a fitting introduction to the city’s colonial aura. Mind the surrounding roads though – crossing them can be quite the misadventure…

Then make your way to your first Mumbai meal. Leopold Café is popular, and was actually one of the city’s first diners. Indulging in an exquisite chicken tikka and hot chai, I was fueled for the rest of my day.

From there is a short walk to the Gateway of India. Before entering, take a few moments to revel in the hustle and bustle of the streets outside it. People fervently sell all sorts, from chai to fresh fruit to spicy snacks, in an array of colour and clamour. The Gateway itself has a strong presence: a triumphal arch built for the 1911 arrival of King George V. It’s also a powerful symbol of independence, marking the final departure point of British troops.

Neighbouring the Gateway is the iconic Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Its historic architecture radiates privilege and grandeur. Time permitting, you can enjoy the quintessential cultural experience of ‘Afternoon Tea’ inside.

For sunset, hit up Marine Drive– Mumbai’s picturesque promenade where you can take a pleasant stroll before sitting on the edge looking out to sea. The sun descends beautifully in front of you. Look behind and the city’s lights flicker on, glowing like pearls in an effect which has been labelled the ‘Queen’s necklace’. Everyone seems to be in a happy mood; a fulfilling way to end your first day in the city.

Start off day 2 with an easy going walk to explore more of what the city has to offer. As a cricket fan, I chose the Oval Maidan playing fields – famous as Mumbai’s sporting hub, and for having multiple overlapping cricket games happening at once. Although not as crowded on a week-day morning, walking around gives you a glimpse into the dedication Indians of all ages have for the sport.

For around midday, I had booked a slum tour. I hadn’t initially considered, or was even aware that this existed, but a friend from the hostel had pointed it out. In the end, I was grateful they had, because the tour is eye-opening. It focuses on the Dharavi Slum, one of the largest and most densely populated in the world. The guide, a resident of the slum, shows you the overcrowded conditions in which people live, work, eat and sleep. However, he also proudly delivers a remarkable tale of productivity, resilience and entrepreneurial brilliance which puts the slum at the forefront of the city’s industry and profits.

Upon finishing the tour, catch a cab for a 20 minute ride to the Dadar Flower Market, where you can take in colourful collections of fresh bloom, used for all types of occasions. There are also plenty of restaurants in the area to refuel before exploring further.

Then hop in another taxi and check out the famous Dhobi Ghat – the world’s largest open–air laundry. It’s a sprawling mass of colourful clothing amongst conditions which again exemplify a hard, honest living. Get the best view from atop the Mahalaxmi Railway Station, before continuing to your last stop of the day – the aromatic Lalbaug Spice Market. Here you can find seemingly every spice imaginable, stacked up high in massive sacks. Loiter around absorbing the strong scents, and expect to be invited by some amused locals to grind some produce yourself. There are plenty of snack stalls where you can sample the local bites to finish your day.

Next morning, head to Elephanta island, famous for the Elephanta Caves, which feature 6th century ancient rock carvings of Hindu deities. Tickets for the ferry to the island are cheap but make sure you get it from the official counter near the port (at the entrance to the Gateway of India). You’ll get in a small boat with other tourists, and will enjoy the refreshing one hour boat ride. Make sure to take pictures of the Mumbai coast, featuring the Taj Mahal and Gateway, as you drift away.

Upon arrival to the island, you have two options. If you have plentiful energy, and don’t mind trudging up some steps, walk to the caves. Alternatively, take a small tourist train. Upon arriving at the caves, you’ll admire the meticulous detail in the carvings. However, i’d say I found it a little samey after a while – about one hour was good enough for me to get the gist and appreciate the workmanship. A bonus, and the part I actually enjoyed the most, was the rowdy population of meddling monkeys scampering around causing mischief.

Upon arriving back in the city, maybe take a short break at your hostel, before heading out again for today’s last venture: Mani Bhavan Gandhi Sangrahalaya, Gandhi’s Mumbai home and headquarters for his nationwide independence movement. Wonder through the neat exhibit and learn about the way he galvanised the Indian population through their non-violent freedom struggle. You can even see his well-preserved bedroom and living quarters. After Gandhi’s house take a walk around the local area and find some grub in the wide selection of nearby restuarants.

Next day is your last in Mumbai, and I recommend spending it in a little more peace. You can find that in Bandra West, which is more affluent and less crowded. Start your day at the Grounded Café, where they do a hearty breakfast and great coffee to give you that boost.

A short tuk tuk ride away is the Bandstand Promenade, on the way you can stop off to check out Shah Rukh Khan’s house if interested. At the promenade, wander onto some sea-front rocks and absorb the fresh breeze whilst looking out over the ocean, and a fantastic view of Bandra’s white skyscrapers lining the curved coast. It’s soothing, and a welcome detachment from the chaos of Southern Mumbai.

From here, meander through the quaint, charming streets of the area, specifically Chapel Road, Waroda Road, and Ranwar village. These narrow streets are full of culture, with decorative murals on the walls, and homes and cafes painted in yellow or blue, an architectural style reflective of Indo – Portuguese history. It pleasantly reminded me of Goa’s Latin quarter.

There’s no better way to cap it off than by visiting Veronica’s: a highly rated café which serves delicious brews and refreshing ice tea, consumed whilst enjoying the cafes relaxed atmosphere and experimental interior.

Finish your exploration of Bandra with a leisurely stroll along the promenade at the scenic Carter Road, before ordering a cab back to your accommodation to prepare for your onward flight the next morning. 

So ended my brief stay in Mumbai, and I was grateful for a solid, surprisingly manageable introduction to Indian urban life. However, next, I would be stepping it up further in intensity, flying north to Jaipur, India’s ‘pink city’ and cultural powerhouse.

Mumbai is vast, and there are a few notable spots I didn’t have time to visit. If you have a little more time, check out the Haji Ali Dargah, a famous mosque and tomb set on an islet connected to the mainland. For a deeper dive into local culture, check out the Sassoon Docks, a vibrant fishing port where, if you arrive early enough, you can watch fishermen auction off their morning catch.

Kotachiwadi is a historic village offering a peaceful respite in South Mumbai. Often labelled as ‘Mini Goa’,  reminiscent again of Portuguese heritage, it features colourful wooden houses and a Catholic feel. If you fancy a bit of art, make sure to check out the city’s top art museums and galleries, such as the Jehangir Art Gallery, the National Gallery of Modern Art, or the Bhau Daji Lad Museum.