Jaipur, India’s distinctive ‘pink city’, is a place of outstanding culture, proud royal history, and mouth-watering food, in many ways offering the quintessential Indian experience.

But it’s also the first time I looked around and realised just how crazy India could be. Arriving in the evening, when the city’s at its liveliest, the level of intensity and chaos on the roads is astounding – Mumbai’s looked meek by comparison. I broke into a laugh as soon as my Uber entered the city centre, my driver sending me bemused glances from the corner of his eye. This was like stepping into what people had always told me about India, and what you might imagine it to be like before seeing it for yourself.

Each day in Jaipur is action-packed. I couldn’t fit in every site during my two day stay, but I made sure to see all the city’s most famous landmarks, and this guide shows you how to do the same.

I stayed in one place throughout my three nights in Jaipur – Madpackers Hostel. It’s in the perfect location, within easy reach of the main attractions. The atmosphere is relaxed, and its chill rooftop makes it easy to meet other travellers and plan adventures around the city.

Getting up on the first morning, head straight to the city’s most iconic monument – the facade of the Hawa Mahal, a palace built in 1799 from pink sandstone. It has hundreds of windows in a honeycomb-like structure, designed to allow women to observe street life and festivals without being seen.

The walkway in front of the palace will always be overcrowded with excitable tourists; a cheat code is to head across to the Wind View café, directly opposite, and take in the awesome view from higher up. Get some coffee or breakfast there to kick start your day.

Before heading to more sites, take a leisurely post-breakfast stroll to observe and acclimatise. At one point I stopped in my tracks, and again started laughing. An elephant, draped in more opulence and colour than many a palace in this city, strode joyfully by on the road, its nonchalant passenger sat proudly on its back. A couple cows on their own errand trudged purposefully around it. Tuk Tuks zapped noisily in and out both. Frail looking dogs awaited an opening, before limping merrily across. This was India at its absurd best.

Onto the main attractions. My next stop was Jantar Mantar – an 18th-century observatory featuring monumental stone instruments once used to measure time and track the movement of stars and planets. It is home to the world’s largest stone sundial – a site to behold.

This place is a great testament to the ingenuity of the early modern Indians. However, in terms of truly enjoying the experience, I feel it is better suited to the more scientifically inclined among us (which I am not), who might understand the complex astronomical jargon on the information boards

Close to Jantar Mantar is the City Palace, a lavish royal complex that once served as the main seat of power and administrative centre of the city. It remains the residence of the Jaipur royal family. Walk around and explore its plush interior and decorative courtyards, taking in the grandeur of Rajput royalty, past and present. 

As late afternoon shifts into evening, a culturally fulfilling experience is simply wandering along the Hawa Mahal Road, which is probably the most bustling street in the city. The walk is like a sensory overload – the colour of the shops, shopkeepers beckoning, the steam rising from sizzling street food, and the clatter of plates. All of this amid a constant chorus of honking horns.

You’ll reach the chaotic climax of your walk at a roundabout in which you will want to spend a good few minutes just standing there taking it all in – mouth slightly ajar.

For spellbinding sunset views, check out Nahargarh Fort. You can take a tuk-tuk up to the base of Nahargarh Road, which winds up to the fort. If you have time before sunset and fancy a bit of a hike, walk up. I, however, went with a couple of lads from the hostel and ended up hopping on the back of bikes with some locals. In hindsight, they might have had a bit of an opportune dealing with us, but it was worth it for the rush of wind and the views as we climbed toward the fort.

At the top, time seems to slow. Under the murky Jaipur sky, as the sun slowly sinks, this massive city sprawls out in a bright, never-ending sea of pink. As night settles, stroll through the fort itself, exploring the empty chambers, imagining the footsteps of royals centuries ago.

Stay for a while and admire Jaipur at night from above, and its breathtaking carpet of thousands of lights.

For dinner, head to Hawk view rooftop restaurant, less than a 5 minute walk from the hostel. The hot, hearty portions, post-sunset adventure, hit the spot.

Once satisfied, an evening wander beckons: if you’re lucky, you’ll catch a Rajasthani wedding spilling out into the streets, the invigorating sounds of drums reverberating across the city. The fervent display of dance and joy will leave you feeling warm and put a smile on your face.

The following day, explore Amer Fort. It’s a 20-minute ride from the hostel, and you’ll be dropped off near the base of the steps leading up to the entrance. Walking the ascent is interesting, salespeople line the path flaunting myriads of mystical items.

Inside the fort, walk through and observe the historic blend of Rajput and Mughal architecture crafted from sandstone and marble, featuring grand courtyards and intricately decorated halls. Wander aimlessly through the endless passages, stopping at forbidden doorways accessible only to history. Get lost in a maze of corridors, peering through windows which lit the paths of medieval royals.

Once you find your way to the exit, your next stop is the Jaigarh Fort, further up from Amer.

There used to be an ancient secret passage connecting the two forts, built for emergency escapes from Amer, but I was disappointed to be told that this was no longer in business. So, we (I and another hostel buddy) took the route of trudging the uphill connecting path – a 30-minute hike if you move briskly. In the midday heat it’s a slight challenge.

However, the trek is worth it. Jaigarh was the highlight of Jaipur for me. The views are sensational. Built as a defensive fort, it seemingly commands a view of the entire region.

Down below, the entire Amer complex, which Jaigarh was built to protect, is visible, alongside the glimmering Maota lake. Beyond that you can glimpse the sprawling Jaipur city cushioned between vast green hills. On the other side, you can just about make out the Jal Mahal (Water Palace) far off in the distance, hovering seamlessly in the middle of Man Sagar Lake as if floating in the sky.

There are vantage points in all corners where you can catch panoramic views of the surrounding landscape. The garden courtyards are also worth exploring, and make sure to check out the Jaivana Cannon – which was in its time the world’s largest cannon on wheels.

To return, get a tuk tuk from Jaigarh back down – although they may try to overcharge as there are few options. For slightly cheaper transport, walk a little further down and hail a ride from closer to Amer fort.

On the way back to the city, make a quick stop at the serene Jal Mahal – Jaipur’s ‘Water Palace’. The palace has an ethereal air – surreal in its isolated beauty in the middle of the lake. Access to the palace itself is restricted, but admiring it from the lakeside is rewarding enough, especially among the lively crowd of appreciative onlookers.

Arriving back in the city centre, it’s dinner time. I had done some research for the best dining spots in Jaipur, and all sources seemed to point to one restaurant: Laxmi Misthan Bhandar. I quickly found out why.

I ordered the most popular option – the Rajasthani Thali. The amount of different dishes served on a single platter is surprising at first, but when you dig in, you quickly realise even that isn’t enough. I couldn’t name half of the stuff I was putting into my mouth but that was irrelevant because everything was so flavourful – probably the best dining experience of my entire India trip.

The restaurant is the perfect way to end your stay in Jaipur before an early night ahead of the next leg of your journey. For me this would be a morning train ride to Agra, home of India’s most iconic monument – the Taj Mahal.

If you have more time in Jaipur, a few places are well worth adding to your itinerary. This includes the Albert Hall Museum, Rajasthan’s oldest museum, famous for its extensive collection of art and artefacts showcasing India’s rich cultural heritage. It’s also said to be particularly beautiful when illuminated at night.

Another recommended spot is Galti Ji (Monkey Temple), which is a little way out in the Aravalli Hills. It’s an ancient Hindu pilgrimage site, known for its scenic surroundings, natural springs and playful monkeys. According to first-hand accounts, the experience is especially peaceful and spiritual in the early hours of the morning for sunrise.