IntrepidIsh

IntrepidIsh

IntrepidIsh

Backpackers Guide to Two Weeks in Tanzania

 

If you’re looking for the perfect blend of adventure and relaxation, Tanzania is hard to beat. Its world-renowned national parks, such as the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater, offer some of the best safari experiences on the planet, while the idyllic island of Zanzibar boasts one of the world’s most beautiful archipelagos. Immerse yourself in the wonders of the natural world, with all it’s mesmerising wildlife, before kicking your feet up on pristine, white-sand beaches – few travel experiences are more rewarding.

I noticed that despite its natural marvels, Tanzania tends to slip under the radar for a lot of travellers – it doesn’t always get the same attention as other destinations like Kenya or South Africa. This made me eager to explore what I saw as an underrated gem, offering a less commercialized yet equally adventurous experience.

Explore Dar es Salaam (Days 1, 2)

I flew into Tanzania’s most populous city, Dar Es Salaam because I wanted to get the most hectic part of my adventure out of the way first, witnessing the frantic energy of city life before gradually easing into complete relaxation come the end of the trip.

However, if you’d rather skip the heat and hustle of the city, you can catch a flight to Kilimanjaro International Airport, practically landing you in the safari scene straight away. From there, you can make your way towards Zanzibar at a more relaxed pace.

Dar Es Salaam

Where to Stay in Dar?

I stayed at The Slow Leopard hostel. It was a little quiet when I went, but I could see the potential. It had a sleek layout and welcoming vibe — with the right crowd and timing, i’d imagine this place to be buzzing!

What to Do in Dar?

I spent most of the first day getting myself together—acclimatising to the streets around the hostel and sorting out phone data (more on that in the Practical Tips section).

By the time I had a plan, it was late afternoon, giving me just a fleeting window to make the day count. I decided to check out the city centre, a 15-minute Uber ride from the hostel.

My first impression of the city was chaotic and unrelenting. The streets were packed with people, all moving at a dogged pace, determined to squeeze out every last bit of productivity from the day.

As the light faded and I was still finding my feet in a completely new country, the intensity felt a little overwhelming. I’d recommend experiencing the city in daylight first. It wasn’t long before I hopped into my first ‘bajaji’ (tuk tuk) back to the hostel.

Next morning, I tried to take in as much of Dar as possible before my 1pm flight to Arusha.

Village Museum

I first visited the ‘Village Museum’. I paid a little fee to get in, but felt it was worth it. It’s exactly what the name suggests: a recreated traditional village. You can dip your head in and out of the straw huts, take in the smokey scents they would have smelt, and gaze upon the basic beds and unembellished utensils. There’s also the opportunity to dance with some locals who are playing some upbeat music, but I didn’t want to make a fool of myself so refrained.

Next stop was the Kivukoni fish market, one of the most recommended places to visit in Dar, and for good reason. It was teeming with activity, and was so crowded I could hardly move my feet. There were countless rows of tables where people proudly prepared their morning catch – an intimate insight into Dar culture.

However, I’d say don’t stay too long – it may get a little stuffy after a while, especially when you combine the heat with the fishy aroma. Also, make sure you put on footwear that you don’t mind getting a bit of stench on for the next few days, as wherever you step your feet will be covered in fish slush!

Next up was the more peaceful Coco beach – you can come here to unwind after the hustle and bustle of the urban centre. The beach was pretty empty when I arrived, but that’s maybe because it was a weekday. As the name suggests, there were plenty of coconuts, perfect for a cheeky Instagram snap with an artistic ocean backdrop.

There were also plenty of stores and little markets, seemingly deserted at this hour; but I’d imagine it to be very lively at peak times. I took a breather here before returning to the hostel and getting ready for my flight.

If you have more time than I did in Dar, add these to your itinerary: The Slipway, a waterfront shopping centre handy for gifts and souvenirs. To learn about Tanzanian heritage and natural history, check out the National Museum and House of Culture.

As for food, I didn’t get much of an opportunity to explore the culinary scene, but would highly recommend ‘Chef’s pride’, which serves up cheap, hearty chicken meals for tired travellers.

View of Mount Meru (Tanzania’s second highest mountain) from Arusha Airport

Explore Arusha (Days 2, 3)

To get  from Dar to Arusha (safari HQ), you’ve got a few options: flight, bus or train. I took a flight because I didn’t want to exhaust myself with travel before I even set foot on a 4-day safari. I found a good deal on the domestic aircraft Flightlink for 40 quid, which impressed me with good service.

Getting into Arusha is an interesting experience – it’s basically a miniature Dar, brimming with energy and constant activity.

Where to Stay in Arusha?

I checked into The White House of Tanzania. It was one of the better hostels of my trip. With its aesthetic social layout, it was easy to meet fellow travellers.

What to Do in Arusha?

Before the safari, I spent one day exploring the city.

I firstly dropped by at the Maasai Market of Curious Crafts. The walk through the market is engaging, with all sorts of items on display, from majestic paintings and intricately carved artifacts to the usual assortment of clothes and accessories. Try not to make too much eye contact with the salespeople unless you’re genuinely interested in buying something, because they will engage you in niceties, and you’ll become embroiled in a sales pitch.

I then headed to Kilombero market, with its plethora of fruit and veg which were a treat to the senses. I also checked out the nearby  Central Market (Soko Kuku) which had a vast array of seemingly every item imaginable in a frenzied environment. It was here that I unfortunately hit my foot on a protruding rock in the middle of the street. So, another tip would be to watch where you’re going – you don’t want to go through the brutally raw process of having a whole toenail removed in a Tanzanian hospital!

So, if you have more time in Arusha, or just better luck with your feet, try to visit some of the more historical or cultural sites of the city, such as the Cultural Heritage Centre which showcases a vast collection of African art and artifacts, or even the Tanzanite Experience – a museum dedicated to the rare gemstone ‘tanzanite’.

Food wasn’t a priority after the whole toe ordeal — but in another universe, it might’ve been. I’d heard good things about Arusha’s culinary scene. There are apparently a few legendary dining spots – Khan’s BBQ seemed to be a top recommendation in magazines and review sites. The Blue Heron restaurant apparently offers a beautiful garden to eat a range of Tanzanian and international dishes whilst pondering your upcoming safari.

Serengeti

Enjoy your Safari: Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, Tarangire National Park (Days 4 – 8)

Next up was the heart of my trip – the safari. I had chosen a 4 day 3 night safari, which I believed to be the perfect amount of time to enjoy it yet not wear myself out. I paid a little more for mid–range (see Practical Tips for more on prices), choosing the comfort of lodge accommodation over camping, mostly because of the inconvenience of lugging a bleeding toe around.

The order of safari stops can vary based on your group’s schedule and logistics, but my itinerary followed this sequence: Serengeti → Ngorongoro Crater → Tarangire National Park.

On the way to the Serengeti, we actually passed through the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, stopping at a vantage point to take in a breathtaking panoramic view of the crater, an awe-inspiring expanse of ecological diversity and natural beauty. Just standing there absorbing the sheer scale and wonder of it was euphoric – and we hadn’t even set foot inside yet!

Serengeti

Once you get into the Serengeti, it can take a while before you spot your first animal of note, but patience is definitely a virtue in this extraordinary place… you have days ahead of you, and your knowledgeable guide will work hard to make your trip as fruitful as possible.

I find big cats the most thrilling, and in the couple days we roamed the Serengeti, I saw quite a few lions and, most strikingly, the cheetah. 

To see these predators in their natural habitat, purposefully going about their business in the brief moments they allow you to observe, is nothing short of sensational. Often, it is tantalising – you see them eyeing their prey, making sudden, deliberate movements from a distance, but you never quite witness the action-packed climax of the chase – you’d be very lucky if you do!

Beyond the thrill of the chase, there are the more gentle wonders. Giraffes and elephants absently roam – only the vast plains of the Serengeti (which fittingly means ‘endless plains’) could make these creatures seem small.

You can occasionally see herds of zebras, grazing idly under the iconic acacia trees. A particularly memorable moment was seeing a bunch of hippos just slumbering in a swamp, making occasional brutish grunts of annoyance, likely from constantly invading each other’s space.

Hippo pool

Ngorongoro Crater

The third morning of the safari took us to the Ngorongoro crater. The crater rim is an eerie place; shrouded in mist due to its altitude. In the early hours of the morning the haze gradually lifts to reveal the slow-moving silhouettes of elephants and buffalos which have somehow strayed onto the crater’s edge.

The crater is said to have formed from an ancient volcanic caldera that collapsed in on itself, creating a fertile haven teeming with nearly every kind of safari animal all within a relatively compact area.

Being inside it is simply magical, you find yourself in disbelief that you are there. Beyond the wildlife, the sheer diversity of ecosystems, from swamps and marshes to woodlands and grasslands, is mesmerising.

A particularly unforgettable moment was playing ‘spot the black rhino’. Even in the crater’s small confines, these majestic creatures remain rare and elusive. We always want what we can’t have, so much of our time was spent scanning the landscape trying to catch a glimpse. Even in the best viewing spots, we strained through our binoculars – only to make out the distant, ambling outline of these evasive beasts.

Tarangire National Park

The final day of the safari took us to Tarangire National Park, renowned for its elephants and uniquely shaped baobab trees. It didn’t disappoint.

Watching herds of elephant families move leisurely across the serene landscape—pausing to rest while baby elephants joyfully rolled in the dirt—was one of the highlights of my entire trip. There was something profoundly moving about the way they travelled in content unison, unfazed by the swarm of safari vans clamouring for a closer look. They followed their designated leaders at the front of the queue, trusting them for direction. It almost gave me goosebumps.

Rhino Lodge – Ngorongoro Crater

Where Did I Stay on My Safari?

I stayed in a different lodge each night – arranged by the tour operators. If you’re on a mid-range lodge safari like I was, expect the level of luxury to vary.

The first night was spent at Shuhudia adventure camp (Serengeti), not the most upscale, but what it did offer was a more intimate experience with the surrounding nature; I could hear lions roaring at night as if they were just outside my tent.

The second night brought me to Rhino lodge (Ngorongoro Crater). It had by far the best atmosphere – offering an immersive experience as it slotted seamlessly onto the crater’s misty perimeter, made even better by an exquisite buffet.

For the final night I stayed at Marera Valley Lodge – the most luxurious of them all. With a spacious room, a private balcony, and even a communal swimming pool, it was the perfect place to replenish after a day out on a gritty safari.

Travel from Arusha to Moshi and Go on a Side Trip (Day 9)

To get from safari HQ Arusha back towards Dar (and eventually Zanzibar), I opted for public transport, which offers a more intimate journey through Tanzania’s landscapes. The full trip lasted around 11 hours, but I stopped over in Moshi, just an hour from Arusha.

Moshi is the best place to see Kilimanjaro—I couldn’t come all this way without at least catching a glimpse of Africa’s highest peak. Actually climbing it takes about a week, so it’s best saved for a separate or longer trip to Tanzania.

Me looking out over the Materuni Falls

What to Do in Moshi?

Moshi isn’t just a base for tackling Kilimanjaro – it also offers more laid-back adventures. The Kikuletwa hot springs and Materuni waterfalls are the most popular options. I opted for the latter, which are a little closer to town.

The falls are often paired with a coffee tour, offering a chance to visit local farms and learn about traditional coffee cultivation. Unfortunately, by the time I arrived, it was too late for the tour—but I wasted no time in heading straight for the falls, eager to catch them before dark.

I took a bajaji, and about half way up, I was assigned a tour guide – I didn’t really have a choice, and honestly I was glad – navigating to the falls alone would have been a challenge.

Upon starting the hike, make sure to watch your step or, as my tour guide kept reminding me, ‘Pole Pole!’ – Swahili for ‘slowly, slowly!’ -whenever I tripped and stumbled over the rocky terrain.

The journey is an experience, with lush green scenery stretching as far as the eye can see. If you head out early, you can catch a stunning view of Kilimanjaro in all its splendour. When I arrived around 4 p.m, however, the mountain’s summit was unfortunately shrouded in mist. Nonetheless, the sight of the cascading falls was therapeutic.

A hidden perk of visiting in the late afternoon is that, if timed well, your journey back may be graced with a breathtaking sunset over the serene, mountainous horizon.

View of Kilamanjaro from Moshi

Where to Stay in Moshi?

In Moshi I stayed at the We Travel Hostel, which was conveniently located near the bus station, and had a friendly atmosphere. It’s also worth mentioning that the chef cooks up a storm!

Travel From Moshi to Dar es Salaam (Day 10)

Next day I embarked on the 10 hour journey back to Dar, taking the Marangu coach – reasonably comfortable and fairly priced.

I travelled with a fellow backpacker from the hostel, whom I’d convinced to join me in Zanzibar. This is the great thing about hostels – you can form quick alliances and people can join you on adventures at a moment’s notice.

Live the Zanzibar Experience (Days 10 - 14)

It was late by the time we got to Zanzibar, and the ferries from Dar to Zanzibar stop at a certain time in the evening around 18:00, so if you arrive after this time, stay the night in Dar and go to Zanzibar the next morning.

Whether buying online or in person, the most renowned and reliable ferry companies to book with are Azam Marine, Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, and Zan Fast Ferries. Tickets typically cost around $35.

Upon arriving in Zanzibar, expect to be swarmed by hasslers—but just walk with confidence and look like you know where you’re going.

If you’re comfortable handling one, renting a scooter is a convenient way to get around (Uber isn’t available). Negotiate firmly – we managed to bring the price down to around $20 per day, plus $10 for the temporary driving permit. Renting a car is also possible, though naturally at a higher price.

Paje

Paje Beach

We had booked Your Zanzibar Place for our hostel, and it turned out to be the perfect choice. The vibe was incredibly relaxed, and best of all, Paje Beach was right behind it.

This beach is mind-blowingly beautiful – pristine white sand and crystal-clear waters shifting through mesmerising shades of blue. The shallows are dotted with pink kites as Paje is famous for kite surfing, giving the beach a distinctive, colourful aesthetic.

Paje is a solid bet for a party, and our hostel was social enough to facilitate this. As the sun set and after a few cheeky drinks, we took our scooters to Michamvi beach to take a boat to the ‘party island’ Kae Funk Sunset Beach and Bar.

Be careful when riding in low light; the roads are rocky and speed bumps almost invisible – at one point I hit one at full pelt, went flying in the air, and came crashing down like a scene straight out of an action movie. Not as fun as it sounds.

The beach bar is bursting with life, making for a truly liberating night out. The evening kicks off with acrobats performing scintillating stunts and ends with everybody dancing round a blazing fire to feel-good tunes. The show wrapped up at nightfall, but our night was far from over.

We headed back to Paje beach, where the sea front is lined with popping bars. We joined the locals, who strutted their stuff to Afrobeats with captivating natural rhythm and style.

Sunset Beach

Kuza Cave

We arose early next day and set off on our scooters, eager to explore what the southern tip of the island had to offer.

Our first stop was a hidden gem not too far from the hostel – Kuza cave. In the stuffy heat of the Tanzanian sun, it is the perfect spot to cool off. This natural limestone cave holds a pool of fresh, clear water, and atmospheric lighting which gives it an almost ethereal feel.

Mtende Beach

Feeling refreshed, we headed to Mtende beach, around a 30 minute scooter ride from the cave.

Upon arriving the views overlooking the beach were sensational. Stepping onto the beach, we were immediately struck by the dramatic rock formations and beautiful turquoise waters. With hardly anyone around, the sheer spaciousness of the place made it feel like a private paradise.

Nestled on the sand, Usumba Rock Restaurant is a beautifully crafted wooden structure that blends seamlessly with the surroundings. Sitting inside it offers a therapeutic view of the scenery – by far the most relaxing moment of my trip. The restaurant serves up tasty seafood.

We had enjoyed Mtende so much that by the time we left, it was almost sunset. If it had been earlier in the day, we would have rounded the island’s curve to nearby Kizimkazi, another popular spot known for an outstanding beach, as well as dolphin tours.

Mtende Beach

Nungwi and Kendwa

That same night I decided to head up to Northern Zanzibar. Luckily I had made another travel buddy at the hostel, and I managed to convince them to join me, using a split taxi fare as an effective bargaining tool – forming hostel alliances can be a real money saver!

We stayed at Greens Nungwi, another hostel with chill, welcoming vibes. The next day, we first explored the nearby Nungwi Beach. We caught it in high tide, leaving barely any space to walk along the shore. This took away from the experience a little. To make the most of it, visit around midday.

We then took a cab to the renowned Kendwa Beach, just a 10/15 minute ride away. Regularly ranked among the world’s best beaches, Kendwa boasts breathtaking scenery. However, it can also be extremely chaotic. While there are quieter corners in which you can lounge peacefully and swim in the blissful water, the busier spots feel like a full-blown circus – acrobatic groups enthralling clusters of tourists, relentless hustlers selling anything and everything, baby monkeys frolicking around on strings , whole supermarkets seemingly carried on the backs of elderly vendors.

It’s a true spectacle, and I found myself just standing there, laughing in disbelief.

If on the lookout for activities, Mnemba Atoll is one of the best snorkelling and diving spots in Zanzibar, and trips can be easily arranged from Kendwa or Nungwi.

Kendwa Beach

Stone Town

My last stop in Zanzibar was Stone Town – the most popular tourist destination on the island due to its rich culture and history. A lot of people may choose to explore this town first, given it’s the island’s entry point, but I saved it until last as I thought it would be an enriching way to end.

I stayed at Stone Town House Hostel—another great spot to meet fellow travellers, with friendly, welcoming staff. Its central location makes it easy to walk to nearby attractions, and it’s right next to Stone Town Café, a great spot for fresh, delicious food and drinks.

What to Do in Stone Town?

My first port of call was the island’s most important historical attraction– the East African Slave Trade Exhibition. This deeply moving site offers a touching tribute to an often-overlooked chapter of history, as much of the global narrative on slavery tends to focus on West Africa.

The most moving part of the exhibit is the slave chamber. In this dim, oppressive space where enslaved people were held before being sold, the vivid echoes of a horrific past still feel tangible.

Outside in the courtyard, there is a monument of five stone figures connected by chains. What is most striking and poignant is the hauntingly realistic expressions on their faces, capturing a sense of hopelessness and resignation.

You can then step into the Christ Church Cathedral, built on the slave market site. The inside of the church is set out modestly, yet this simplicity only enhances its moving atmosphere, allowing for quiet reflection on it’s solemn purpose of commemoration. The weight of the history is softened slightly by the spirituality of the space, with colourful stained-glass windows casting a graceful glow.

East African  Slave Trade Exhibit

You can then take a stroll and enjoy the rest of what stone town has to offer.

Forodhani gardens is a welcome respite to offset the heaviness of the slave market. It is an aesthetic park which overlooks the glistening blue harbour. The atmosphere is lively and inviting. Chefs eagerly beckon you to their food stalls, as the rich aroma of grilled seafood and spices fills the air. Youth swagger about and find amusing yet creative ways to make money.

For a deeper dive into Zanzibar’s history, visit the Old Fort, built in the 17th century by the Omani Arabs. Another site is the House of Wonders which serves as one of the island’s most iconic buildings; it was once the tallest building in East Africa and the first to have an electric elevator.

I also stopped by the Old Dispensary, a former charitable hospital which was established by a wealthy Indian merchant. Its architectural style highlights the significant Indian influence on the island’s past.

For an immersive cultural experience, a spice tour is heavily recommended. Led by a local guide, you’ll visit a spice farm, where you can see, smell, and taste the island’s famous spices and tropical fruits straight from the source, as well as enjoy a spice infused meal at the end.

Although I didn’t have time for the tour, I enjoyed an equally rich cultural experience – simply walking through the maze of narrow streets and alleys, lined with colourful boutique stores and intricate architecture reflecting the rich influences of Arab, Persian, and Indian heritage.

Around midday the next day, I took the ferry back to Dar Es Salaam. The atmosphere on the boat was lively, giving me time to reflect on an incredible two weeks in Tanzania—packed with adventure, learning, and unforgettable experiences.

The next day I took a fight back to the UK, where upon arrival, I immediately started to miss the glorious weather and carefree, adventurous lifestyle of Tanzania.

View from Forodhani Gardens

Practical Tips for Tanzania

If the above has only strengthened your desire to visit this incredible country, here are some tips to help you prepare:

Health

  • Visit a pharmacy at least a couple weeks before your trip to get any necessary medications. Essentials include malaria tablets, insect repellent, and possibly the yellow fever vaccine—especially if transiting through a high-risk countries like Ethiopia. (See ‘United Republic of Tanzania – Fit for Travel’ for detailed health requirements.)
  • Avoid tap water, even for brushing your teeth—stick to bottled or filtered.
  • Tanzanian street food is worth trying, but stick to the busier, trusted stalls to lower your risk of getting ill.

Visa and Entry Requirements

  • Apply for your e-visa in advance through the official Tanzanian government site to skip delays at the airport.
  • Zanzibar technically requires a separate visa, which costs around $50 – sort this ahead of time too.

Money and Costs

Tanzania isn’t cheap, especially safaris, which are expensive due to the remote locations of the parks. That said, for a more economical trip:

  • Learn the currency conversion rates early on. US dollars are widely accepted, but Tanzanian shillings (TZS) are better for small everyday transactions – especially to avoid overpaying when a seller claims they don’t have change for your dollars.
  • Always ask locals or fellow travellers about fair prices for your goods and services.
  • Tipping is common practice, so keep some spare change. For safaris, expect to tip $10–$20 per person per day for guides. For smaller services like walking tours, $5–$10 is appreciated, but even smaller amounts are welcome.

Safari Costs and Booking Tips

Here’s a rough idea of what you’ll pay for a 4-day safari:

  • Budget Camping: $700 – $900
  • Mid-range: $1,200
  • Luxury: $1,500+

For the best deals, don’t book too far in advance — wait until you’re in Arusha and ask around. Websites like SafariBookings help filter options, but a mix of online research and word-of-mouth will land you the best experiences. Pay attention to how providers communicate – tone and responsiveness often reflect the quality of service.

My guide Agustino was really chill and extremely knowledgeable – contact him here.

Packing for a Safari

  • Stick to neutral tones like khaki or olive green – bright colours can startle wildlife.
  • Whilst in accommodation, opt for light, breathable trousers and long-sleeved tops to protect against insect bites while staying cool.
  • Don’t forget a pair of quality binoculars – essential for observing predators without getting too close!

Best Time to Visit Tanzania

  • The dry season from June to October (I went in October) is the best time to visit overall; the weather is nicest and wildlife viewing is at its prime. It’s also the best window to witness the Serengeti’s Great Migration.
  • If you prefer fewer tourists and safari vehicles, and enjoy lusher scenery, the rainy season (November to May) could be a good option.
Connectivity
  • Vodacom is the most reliable phone network in Tanzania, offering good data packages at reasonable prices and a wide-reaching service. Top tip: When purchasing your package, head to an official store rather than makeshift stools on the street, as there could be language barriers. Bring your passport too.


Local Etiquette

  • Learning a few basic Swahili phrases before you travel can make a big difference. Simple words like ‘Jambo’ (Hello), ‘Asante Sana’ (Thank you very much), and even the famous ‘Hakuna Matata’ (No worries) can go a long way in lightening the mood and showing respect for Tanzanian culture—something the locals will truly appreciate!