How to Spend 2 Days in Agra - Backpacker's Guide

Agra is famous for one thing – the Taj Mahal, one of the seven wonders of the world. It’s worth staying here at least one full day to witness this masterpiece in all its glory.

Outside of the Taj Mahal, the city of Agra is, like many other densely populated cities in India, a little on the scruffy side. The traffic, as you’ll find out as soon as you exit the station, is manic. Like Jaipur, the intensity is not for beginners.

If you’re happy to keep moving, you can comfortably see Agra in a day. But for a leisurely approach, take two. I did the latter, and found it to be just the right amount of time to appreciate everything Agra had to offer without rushing. This guide takes you through exactly how i did it.

Every backpacker I had spoke to who had been here seemed to recommend Joeys Hostel, so I booked it – and it delivered. To get better rest, I initially stayed in a private room so didn’t get to experience the dorm atmosphere. However, the rooftop more than compensated for this, offering a relaxed, friendly environment to chat to other travellers.

The rooftop also offers a great first glimpse of the Taj Mahal, rising above the shabby local residences – a great selling point for the hostel.

Which angle of the Taj to check out first? I arrived early afternoon in Agra and was told the best time to enter the actual Taj Mahal complex was early morning. Therefore, with the afternoon looming, I decided to visit the Mehtab Bagh garden first, a viewing point of the Taj from across the river, and one of the best places to see it at sunset. It’s around a 25-minute tuk tuk ride from the hostel.

Immediately noticeable as you enter the garden is the sound of what seems like hundreds of birds chirping away in the lush green trees. The white monument itself looms large with a captivating presence as the sun sets poetically to one side of it. You’ll find yourself losing track of time.

Once the sun has done most of its setting, you are ushered out by stewards who want to wrap up proceedings for the night. I’d recommend taking a walk down the road leading from Mehtab Bagh and lingering near the crossroads before hailing a taxi back. I found the locals around here to be full of life, with colourful displays of spontaneous dancing and celebration.

Next morning get up early to see the most famous view of the Taj Mahal – head on inside the complex. The earlier the better to avoid long queues, but you’ll never get up early enough to avoid some kind of waiting.

The Taj stands tall and stunning at the break of dawn, its white surface resplendent against the pale morning sky. The crowds at this time, although still considerable, are small enough not to overwhelm the experience, giving you ample space to appreciate the monument. You’ll admire how symmetrical everything is, from the garden with its water channel lined with cypress trees, all the way up to the mausoleum’s immaculate design.

It’s all the more inspiring when you realise the story behind it – a monument symbolizing eternal love and devotion, built around 1650 by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth.

To capture the essence, you’ll want to take a few photos, but for the best lighting and quality, wait until the sun is a little higher in the sky.

Be sure to go inside the surprisingly small interior and take the short walk around the tombs. At the entrance, stop to appreciate the flawless white marble with detailed floral inlays, still immaculate more than 350 years after its completion. Coming out, take a few moments to admire the beauty of the Charbagh garden laid out below you.

By the time you’ve left the complex it should still be early morning, so you’ll have much of the day still ahead of you. Head back to Joeys Hostel for breakfast, where they serve a decent buffet, before continuing on.

The next obvious choice of destination is the Agra fort. The historical significance of the fort is immediately palpable; for much of its history, it served as the main residence and seat of government for Mughal emperors. The formidable red sandstone structure stands proud and imperious.

Inside, there is plenty to marvel at: grand palaces, opulent audience halls and decorative mosques. Along with the red sandstone, intricate white marble and Pietra Dura inlays embellish the buildings. There are gardens interspersed throughout, providing breathing space for a little wandering.

I particularly enjoyed the Musamman Burj (Octagonal Tower). This part of the fort offers a distant view of the Taj Mahal; so far off and miniscule amongst the hazy green landscape, yet still so grand and imposing, it has an ethereal air, like something out of a fairytale. It’s also poignant, as this is the view that would have been seen by Emperor Shah Shahan during his imprisonment, as he looked out upon the monument he had created for his late wife.

It will likely be afternoon by the time you get to your next destination – the ‘Baby Taj’, nicknamed so because of its architectural resemblance to its larger counterpart, featuring the same style of white marble and intricate inlays. Its significantly smaller scale means it can be overlooked by tourists, but in my opinion, it’s worth checking out because of its historical significance; this mini mausoleum was actually what influenced the design of the Taj Mahal.

It is also important as it marks the shift in Mughal architecture style from red sandstone to white marble – being the first Mughal tomb to be built entirely from the latter.

What’s also pleasant about taking a wander through this complex is its serenity. Fewer tourists, combined with its location away from the main road, make for a remarkably tranquil setting.

Once you’ve relaxed at Baby Taj for a little while, head back to the hostel and prepare for your late train to Delhi. Make sure to have a hearty dinner to see you through the journey. There are a few good places to eat. One is Joney’s place, where I had a satisfying chicken curry with friendly service. Chia Taj View Café is another decent option, with a good view as the name suggests, while Joeys hostel itself serves up a solid thali. It’s then time to pack up and take a tuk tuk to the train station.

By late evening, I would be arriving in Delhi, approaching the city with some apprehension. Reviews from fellow travellers had not been encouraging – many said they had scuttled before they had even started. However, I’ve never been one to shy away from a challenge ….